I first wrote this journal in September and October 2011, on a trip from Birmingham to Guayaquil and on to Salinas, Ecuador. It appeared on my old Ecuador Travel site in 2013. I’m sharing it again here with only light edits. Prices, hotels, and a few other details are from that trip. I’ve marked each price as a 2011 price and, where I could find a current comparable, added a 2026 estimate. Those estimates are asking prices or menu prices, not promises of what you would pay today.
September 28, 2011
We live just outside of Birmingham, Alabama, and drove to the Birmingham airport, leaving at about 10 a.m. CST. We were due to fly out at 12:35 p.m. on American Airlines to Miami. Once in Miami it is less than five hours’ flying time to Guayaquil, Ecuador. Guayaquil is a large port city on the Pacific.
We were due to depart Miami around 5:30 p.m. and arrive in Guayaquil around 9:30 p.m.
We arrived in Guayaquil 30 minutes early on American Airlines — so early that there was no place for us to unload directly into the passenger terminal. We disembarked at the freight warehouse and were bused over to the main terminal, where we picked up our bags and were met at the airport by family, who brought us to my wife’s family home. However, if you have no one meeting you at the airport, all you have to do is get a taxi and have them take you to your hotel. If your Spanish is not so good, just write down the hotel name and address on a piece of paper and show the driver that is where you wish to go. Ask him up front how much, or “¿Cuánto cuesta para llevarme allí?”
The next morning
Woke up this morning to a hot shower. Temperature outside is about 70 degrees.
Today we begin the process of looking for an automobile by checking out the ads in the Expreso newspaper of Guayaquil.
September 30, 2011 — Guayaquil
I walked about two blocks and had a breakfast of bolón de verde con queso y carne. With it I had a cappuccino, or as it is known here in Ecuador, a café con leche. Total cost of breakfast was $1.75 (2011 price; in September 2026 I paid $3.50 for a bolón with two fried eggs and a café con leche at the Salinas city market, while Guayaquil delivery menus run about $4–$5), and they even gave me El Universo to read.
We had a small temblor, or earthquake, this morning around 7:37, with an epicenter about four miles from Guayaquil. It measured 4.5 and was centered in Isla Puná, which is just south of Guayaquil. No damage was done.
Today, Friday, I checked on renting a car and found the cost to be around $1,900 per month (2011 price; I could not find a current monthly rate I could verify). When we asked about the insurance we were told that we had a $10,000 deductible (2011 figure) and that it only covers if the car is a total loss — and I mean a total loss, none of the 70 percent stuff like in the U.S.A.
Just got back from the Caraguay open market on the south side of Guayaquil. It is called Mercado Caraguay and is located right on the Guayas River, where ocean-going vessels bring in all varieties of seafood. Fresh vegetables, fruits, and seafood. Fantastic.
We bought corvina de la roca (sea bass) to cook for lunch, along with cilantro. We are not going to cook it ourselves; the lady who helps my brother-in-law is going to do the cooking.
These are some lobster dishes we found in Playas, which is a beach town about one hour from Guayaquil along the Pacific coast. I first traveled to Playas with some friends in the Peace Corps in 1976. I looked just like one of these lobsters after getting too much sun walking on the beaches of Playas. That was the last time that happened to me, because I learned how to handle the sun just a little at a time.
A new small car, a Chevrolet or Peugeot, costs around $19,000 here in Ecuador (2011 price; a new small Chevrolet, such as an Onix, still lists for about $19,000–$20,000 today). We are looking at a Land Rover, because I have wanted one of those since being here in 1976.
Today is Saturday and we are trying to get to Salinas. We may end up taking the bus today.
Open market versus supermarket. You can buy your food at an open market or go to a supermarket much like those in the USA.
Or you can have your food delivered to your home by a fellow on one of these motors, with a box on the back of it containing your meal.
In Guayaquil and other cities there are several stores where you can buy pan de yuca and yogurt drinks. This particular chain of stores started out in 1976, when I was in Guayaquil. The bakery food and drink is excellent, and I always stop in to buy several pan de yuca — bread balls made from yuca and cheese — served hot along with a cold yogurt de mora (a blackberry-flavored yogurt drink). A bag of five pan de yuca and a 12 oz. yogurt de mora costs $3.30 (2011 price; Yogurt Persa is still open, and five pan de yuca plus a 12 oz. yogurt now list for about $6) and is fantastic. The store is called Yogurt Persa, and you will not want to miss it when you see one. I highly recommend it to you.
We are now in Salinas after a two-hour drive from Guayaquil. Getting ready to eat in the Ipanema restaurant, which is located where you turn right to go up the hill to Chipipe Beach (that was 2011; check it’s still there before you go). The seco de pollo is $4.50 and the Club beer is $2.50 (2011 prices; a seco de pollo at a Salinas restaurant now lists for $5, and a Club beer on a malecón menu is still $2.50).
Sunday, October 2
We were able to rent a nice three-bedroom condo overlooking the beach for $500 for one month, which is a good price (2011 price; similar three-bedroom condos overlooking the beach in Chipipe now list for about $750–$1,200 a month, based on recent asking prices). The owner is a doctor from Guayaquil. Tonight we went to eat and spent $8 for a fish plate, a large beer, and shish kebab (2011 price; a fish plate and a Club beer on a Salinas malecón menu now run about $12–$17.50, before adding a kebab).
Tuesday, October 4
Today Ulvia and I went to look for property in Punta Barandúa and in Ballenita. We found oceanfront lots from $30,000 to $80,000 in price (2011 prices; similar oceanfront lots in Ballenita now list for about $95,000–$110,000, based on recent asking prices. Lots near the ocean but not in the first row, including in Punta Barandúa, still list around $30,000). Some lots have been purchased in the past two years or so by North Americans, and they are now flipping the property for a profit of $10,000 to $20,000 in two years’ time (2011 observation). The real-estate travesty that is taking place is not happening in Ecuador. Here there is a shortage of oceanfront property — lots of demand, and quite a bit of property to choose from. Even the waiters at restaurants have real-estate cards, or they are working with real-estate agents helping foreigners find property. Many Americans are retiring in Ecuador now because the cost of living is reasonable and they can live very well on a lower budget.
What is needed to buy land in Ecuador? Make sure you have a clear title to the property. The only way to do that is to go to the registrar in the capital of the province yourself to get a copy of the title. Or you can have your lawyer do it for you. Make sure you use a lawyer that is recommended by someone else, and that someone else has used them before.
Through a friend we found some property in Ballenita. The owner is supposed to fly down from Miami next week to make the transaction.
Wednesday, October 5
We are back in Guayaquil today. Rode in with a friend of Ulvia’s and her dog. She really needs to learn how to drive better!
Thursday, October 6
Woke up and walked three blocks to eat breakfast. Breakfast for two cost $3.25 (2011 price; two humitas in Guayaquil now cost about $2–$3.50, and with coffee and tea a similar breakfast for two would run about $6–$7). We both had a humita con queso, and I had café con leche and Ulvia had hot tea with her humita con queso.
For lunch we ate in Guayaquil, cost $21 for three people at a nicer restaurant (2011 price; I could not find a current total for a similar nicer-restaurant lunch for three).
October 10, 2011 — Guayaquil
Today is October 10, 2011, in Guayaquil, Ecuador. We had to come into Guayaquil to have a birthday party for Ulvia yesterday.
Saturday, October 15
Lunch cost $12.00 for four persons (2011 price; a set lunch of soup and a main in Guayaquil now lists for about $4 a person, so a similar meal for four would be about $16 before drinks). Soup, fish, chicken, and cola.
A penthouse can be bought for $105,000 and then fixed up for $30,000, which can then be sold for $155,000, maybe (2011 prices and estimates; the journal does not name the city. Similar older oceanfront condos and penthouses in Chipipe now list for about $195,000–$350,000, based on recent asking prices. I did not find a current comparable for the $30,000 fix-up cost). The only problem with the building is that it is an old building, about 30 years old. There is another condo for sale at $85,000 which could be bought for $70,000 most likely, and then fixed up a bit and sold for $95,000 maybe (2011 prices and estimates; similar older three-bedroom condos in Chipipe, near but not always on the beach, now list for about $88,000–$118,000, based on recent asking prices).
Prices then and now
The 2011 figures are what I paid or was quoted on that trip. The 2026 figures are asking prices or menu prices checked on November 14, 2026 (America/Panama, UTC-5), unless a source is dated earlier. Ecuador rarely publishes closed real-estate sales, so the property numbers below are asking prices, not recorded sales. Delivery-app menus can run a little higher than a walk-up counter.
Breakfast of bolón de verde and café con leche (Guayaquil). 2011: $1.75. September 2026, Salinas city market (what I paid): $3.50 for a bolón, two fried eggs and café con leche. Guayaquil delivery menus run about $4–$5. Sources: Coffee&bolón on Rappi, bolón de queso $3.00 and café con leche $1.75 (https://www.rappi.com.ec/restaurantes/51283-coffeeybolon); Bolón Porteño on Rappi, bolón de queso $2.92 and café expreso $1.25 (https://www.rappi.com.ec/restaurantes/48485-bolon-porteno). Both menus checked November 14, 2026.
Monthly car rental (Guayaquil). 2011: about $1,900 a month. 2026: no verified current monthly rate found.
Car-rental insurance deductible. 2011: $10,000, and only if the car was a total loss. 2026: no verified current comparable found.
New small car (Chevrolet or Peugeot). 2011: about $19,000. 2026 estimate: about $18,999–$19,990 list. Sources: Chevrolet Onix Hatchback LT from $18,999, ecu11, June 12, 2026 (https://ecu11.com/chevrolet-presenta-para-ecuador-el-onix-hatchback-lt/); Chevrolet Onix Sedán 1.0L LTZ from $19,990 official list, Autocosmos, checked November 14, 2026 (https://www.autocosmos.com.ec/catalogo/vigente/chevrolet/onix-sedan).
Five pan de yuca and a 12 oz. yogurt de mora (Yogurt Persa). 2011: $3.30. 2026 estimate: about $6. Yogurt Persa is still open. Sources: Uber Eats, Yogurt Persa Garzota, five pan de yuca $2.88, 12 oz. yogurt $3.38, and Combo 2 (12 oz. yogurt plus five baked items) $5.94 (https://www.ubereats.com/ec/store/yogurt-persa-garzota/CVcXQGD-Q9OE17vaHynxLA); Rappi, Yogurt Persa at Boyacá y 9 de Octubre, same Combo 2 at $5.94 and yogurt mediano (12 oz.) at $3.38 (https://www.rappi.com.ec/restaurantes/335-yogurt-persa). Both checked November 14, 2026.
Seco de pollo at Ipanema, Salinas. 2011: $4.50. 2026 estimate: about $5 at another Salinas restaurant. I could not confirm that Ipanema is still open, so check it’s still there before you go. Source: Marisquería Barca Azul, Salinas, secos including seco de pollo $5.00, checked November 14, 2026 (https://marisqueriasalinas.mitiendanube.com/productos/secos-pollo-carne-chancho-costillas1/).
Club beer at Ipanema, Salinas. 2011: $2.50. 2026 estimate: still $2.50 on a Salinas malecón menu. Source: La Fontana Tierrita Verde, Avenida Malecón, Salinas, Club Verde $2.50 on Rappi, checked November 14, 2026 (https://www.rappi.com.ec/restaurantes/46749-la-fontana-tierrita-verde).
Three-bedroom condo overlooking the beach, one month (Salinas/Chipipe). 2011: $500 for one month, a private rental from a doctor in Guayaquil. 2026 estimate: about $750–$1,200 a month, asking prices. Sources, all active when checked November 14, 2026: 3-bedroom oceanfront condo in Chipipe, 110 m², $750 a month year-round or $1,000 for one month, listing RL2600180 (https://ecuador.propertyshelf.com/es/tipos-de-propiedades/alquiler-residencial/alquiler-residencial/rl2600180); 3-bedroom oceanfront condo at Edificio El Tiburón, Chipipe, 223 m², $850 a month, listing RL2600110 (https://mls.mls-ecuador.com/agencies/ieinternational/listings/rl2600110); 3-bedroom ocean-view condo at Edificio El Emperador, Chipipe Malecón, 144 m², $1,200 a month, listing RL2600111 (https://ecuador.propertyshelf.com/en/real-estate-by-type/residential-lease/rl2600111).
Dinner of a fish plate, a large beer, and shish kebab (Salinas). 2011: $8. 2026 estimate: a fish plate and a Club beer now run about $12–$17.50, before adding a kebab; no current kebab price found. Source: La Fontana Tierrita Verde, Avenida Malecón, Salinas, pescado a la plancha $10.53, pescado al ajillo $9.78, corvina frita $14.95, and Club Verde $2.50, checked November 14, 2026 (https://www.rappi.com.ec/restaurantes/46749-la-fontana-tierrita-verde).
Oceanfront lots in Punta Barandúa and Ballenita. 2011: $30,000–$80,000. 2026 estimate: about $95,000–$110,000 asking for oceanfront or malecón lots in Ballenita; lots near the ocean but not in the first row still list around $30,000. Sources, checked November 14, 2026: 250 m² oceanfront lot in Ballenita, $110,000 asking, listing LL2600059 (https://mls-ecuador.com/es/inmobiliarias/inmobiliaria-amy-prisco/amy-prisco-terrenos-comercio/ll2600059); 600 m² lot on the Ballenita malecón, $95,000 asking, listing LL2600015 (https://www.ecuadorhomesales.com/land/land/ll2600015); 375 m² ocean-vicinity lot in Punta Barandúa, $30,000 asking, listing LL2600116 (https://mls.mls-ecuador.com/agencies/ieinternational/listings/ll2600116/view); 367 m² lot in Urbanización Marenostro, Punta Barandúa, with direct beach access for the urbanization, $110,000 asking (https://www.plusvalia.com/propiedades/clasificado/vecltein-terrenos-en-venta-en-marenostro-punta-barandua-ruta-145384450.html).
Flip profit of $10,000–$20,000 on lots. 2011 observation only. No current comparable found.
Breakfast for two of humitas, café con leche, and tea (Guayaquil). 2011: $3.25. 2026 estimate: about $6–$7. Sources: El Universo, April 3, 2026, humitas $1.75 each or three for $5 at Las Humitas del Pelucón, Luque y Boyacá (https://www.eluniverso.com/guayaquil/comunidad/las-mas-grandes-puro-choclo-y-queso-manaba-humitas-de-una-libra-y-cuarto-atraen-a-clientes-en-el-centro-de-guayaquil-nota/); El Saloncito, Guayaquil, humitas $1.00–$2.00, checked November 14, 2026 (https://www.elsaloncito.com/producto/humitas-individual-o-paquete-2/); Bolón Porteño on Rappi, humita with coffee $3.00, checked November 14, 2026 (https://www.rappi.com.ec/restaurantes/48485-bolon-porteno); Coffee&bolón on Rappi, café con leche $1.75, checked November 14, 2026 (https://www.rappi.com.ec/restaurantes/51283-coffeeybolon).
Lunch for three at a nicer restaurant (Guayaquil). 2011: $21. 2026: no clean current total found for a similar nicer-restaurant lunch for three in Guayaquil.
Lunch for four of soup, fish, chicken, and cola (Guayaquil). 2011: $12.00. 2026 estimate: about $16 for four before drinks, based on a $4 set lunch of soup and a main. Source: Cafetería Cofin, Guayaquil, Completo Ejecutivo (soup plus main) $4.00 on Uber Eats, checked November 14, 2026 (https://www.ubereats.com/ec-en/store/cafeteria-cofin-guayaquil/UlrK1-TSRmuBeq9nwA2u-g).
Older penthouse, plus fix-up and hoped-for resale. 2011: $105,000 to buy, $30,000 to fix up, maybe $155,000 to sell. The journal does not name the city. 2026 estimate: about $195,000–$350,000 asking for older oceanfront condos and penthouses in Chipipe. No current comparable found for the $30,000 fix-up cost, and no closed-sale figures found. Sources: 4-bedroom, 207 m², 13th-floor oceanfront unit in Chipipe, built in 1980, $195,000 asking (reduced from $224,000), listing RS2500567, checked November 14, 2026 (https://mls.mls-ecuador.com/agencies/marisabienesraices/listings/rs2500567/view); 3-bedroom, 189 m², oceanfront condo in Chipipe in a building about 30 years old, $350,000 asking, Bienes Raíces Ocean, listing photos dated October 2025, page checked November 14, 2026 (https://www.bienesraicesocean.com/propiedades/se-vende-hermoso-departamento-directo-al-mar-en-exclusivo-sector-de-chipipe-en-salinas/); 4-bedroom oceanfront condo in Chipipe with direct beach access, in a building about 30 years old, $275,000 asking, Bienes Raíces Ocean, listing photos dated March 2026, page checked November 14, 2026 (https://www.bienesraicesocean.com/propiedades/se-vende-exclusivo-y-amplio-departamento-directo-al-mar-en-zona-privilegiada-ubicado-en-salinas-chipipe/).
Older condo listed at $85,000, maybe $70,000 to buy and $95,000 to resell. 2011 prices and estimates. 2026 estimate: about $88,000–$118,000 asking for older or near-beach three-bedroom condos in Chipipe. Sources: 3-bedroom, 116.98 m² Chipipe condo, 21–30 years old, near the beach, $88,000 asking, GeoBienes, published about two months before November 14, 2026, or around mid-September 2026 (https://geobienes.com/venta/salinas/chipipe/departamento-3-dormitorios-2-banos-116m2-gb-744); 3-bedroom, 160 m² Chipipe condo two blocks from the beach, $92,000 asking, and 3-bedroom, 149 m² oceanfront Chipipe condo, $118,000 asking, both shown on Plusvalía’s Chipipe three-bedroom search on November 14, 2026 (https://www.plusvalia.com/venta/departamentos/santa-elena/salinas/chipipe/con-3-habitaciones).